When you continue seeing a producer on the best wine lists in New York that you aren't familiar with, that says more about you than the producer. That's what I learned with Channing Daughters, as it quickly became clear that the hype was well deserved. While the Finger Lakes may be more famous for fine wine, the climate of Long Island provides a tremendous opportunity for growers like Channing Daughters to experiment with a wide variety of grapes and styles, something winemaker Christopher Tracy has taken full advantage of. Tracy's wines are ambitious, low-intervention in style, and unflinchingly charismatic. If these are your first Long Island wines, you're in for a treat.